Southeast Asian Trilogy

The Road to Phnom Phen

The roads to Phnom Phen are dusty and hot! The city is packed with motorcycles, bikes, and autos. The red dust is scattered everywhere by motorists. Phnom Phen is not modern but does have shops of all sorts and many restaurants catering to locals. Unfortunately I did not spend much time touring the city except for driving. The city is very crowded yet I did not see any tourists. This is because Angkor Wat is the main attraction and most tourists fly directly in and out of Siem Reap.

Since our destination was Battambang we set out on the road the same day. Highway 5 stretches into northern Cambodia along the Tonle Sap lake/river. The road is well paved and even has a center divider. Everyone uses the same road: autos, motorcycles, bicycles, pedestrians, and oxen. All of the homes along this stretch are on 6 to 8 stilts. From the looks of it there appeared to be plenty of potential for seasonal floods. The most basic houses are made entirely from wood and dried thatch material. Others are made from concrete and have corregated metal or ceramic roofs.

Most of these homes, even the most modest huts, have a large antenna fixed on a long bamboo pole. Homes that don’t have electricity operate their tv from generators or super sized auto batteries. The landscape is dotted with hi-rise radio towers, temples, and muddy water. Street vendors peddle refreshments to travelers. This scene is repeated through Kampong Chhnang, Pursal, and Battambang -- all connected through highway 5.

Battambang Countryside: Another Place, Another Time

When my friend Sam asked me if I wanted to travel to Cambodia and stay with his family I jumped at the opportunity. I have to admit that I got more than I bargained for. Sam’s family house is in the countryside near Battambang and they live a very traditional lifestyle. There is no running water. You have to go the outhouse to relieve yourself and you use rainwater to bath yourself using a bowl. There are millions of insects. The area is hot, humid, and there is no wind. A visitor must take care to drink and brush with bottled water and avoid ice. In the evening the frogs inhabit the outhouse since it is moist.

The family does have electricity for running fans, tv, and florescent light bulbs. Each house has at least two dogs to guard the place and make use of table scraps. I had been warned not to venture into the neighborhood alone. Also a US government site warned foreign travelers of packs of dogs. Ridiculous. However I soon learned that the neighborhood dogs are very keen. They can sense when someone doesn’t belong and they can display their suspicion very effectively. After that I stayed close by.

Rain water is collected from the roofs via a rubber tube that empties into several huge water jugs. When there is no rain the community well is used. The water is used for bathing, cleaning clothes, but not for drinking.

This visit was a reunion for Sam’s family. All of the nearby relatives and neighbors showed up to join the excitement. Everyone was friendly, polite, and was delighted to host far away guests. The family network is alive and well in rural Battambang. Relatives live next by and the people are very close nit.

Frankly, I wanted to get out and see more of Battambang. There are some temples and a Khmer Rouge site. Upon mentioning this to my friend, Sam told me “shhhh” and not to mention that word. That very night his Dad had a nightmare, and it sounded like he was pleading for his life. The next night his sister had a vocal nightmare and had to be wakened. I took all this as an omen to leave things alone. We did however visit some interesting local wats (temples) and markets.

There are hardly any visible tourists in this part of Cambodia. For one thing it is remote. Another thing is the roads to distant attractions are not good. We visited one local wat late in the afternoon and the guest book showed that only one Finnish individual had come by. At a second wat we climbed up several hundred stairs to find a Cambodian flag and spectacular view of the Battambang countryside. Even here there were only some local kids hanging around.

Much of the daily activity revolves around eating. People in the area get up early with the roosters and start the chores of cleaning and cooking. The women do most of those chores. Men and women wear sarongs, kids wear shorts and t-shirts. Interestingly you do not see a lot of adults wearing shorts or casuals if they wear western clothes. They tend to dress formal (slacks and dress shirts) despite high heat and humidity.

The meals are cooked by wood fires. Typically there is rice, an small amount of meats (especially fish), vegetables, and sauces. Bottled water is served, and fruits are the dessert. There is no junk food or sodas in sight. Fish is plentiful in Cambodia because they grow easily in fish ponds, rice fields, rivers, and lakes. If you go to the local market you can buy various snacks including fruits, popcorn, and insects. I didn’t care for the beetles, but the toasted crickets were delicious. Much like potato chips.

Cambodian folks are charming. The crowd I was with seemed genuinely happy and kept asking me in basic English if I liked Cambodia and if I was happy. Other polite conversation included questions about Hawaii, what I wanted to see in Cambodia, if I was single, and if I was interested in marrying a Cambodian women. People were always kind to offer a seat, bottled water, or fruits. The kids like to offer you fragrant flower blossoms.

Cell phones are popular in Cambodia since the phone system is not widespread. This is common in many countries were the communication infrastructure is not intact. People buy phone cards/chips to meet their needs.

One morning I woke up early with the roosters. Everyone uses fire to cook their food and you can smell it in the air. The house is near a temple so in the quite morning you could hear the hypnotic chanting. The crickets and frogs were chirping and the oxen owners were herding their cattle down the dirt street. One of the aunts was hand washing clothes with rain water. Despite the erosion of the traditional Asia way of life by western values, this is one area that remains unchanged. I imagine that except for tv and cell phones this area is the same as it was hundreds of years ago.

We drove to Siem Reap from Battambang via Sisophon. From Sisophon the road is dusty and in miserable condition. During rainfall the roads are surely impassible. Our vehicle had enough punishment and blew a flat tire. Fortunately the driver had a spare tire but his wrench didn’t work. We had to wait for the driver to get a new one via motorcycle ride. Meanwhile we inspected some local cricket traps.

The word is out that Angkor Wat is safe to visit again. Siem Reap is booming. Most tourists fly in due to road conditions. Three story luxury hotels are going up everywhere. They boast satellite TV, fine dining, swimming pool, etc. We in our thrifty ways got a good deal at a low budget hotel for $5/night. It even had air conditioning ($5 extra).

There is a Khmer cultural village that has a modest entrance fee where you can see the history of Cambodia as well as famous (wax) figures and various cultural shows. Interestingly most of the attendees are Khmer.

Angkor Wat is the main temple in Siem Reap. But there are more than a dozen other temples that are equally fascinating. Each has it’s own character. Angkor Wat has a huge moat around it and has a grand ambience. As with all the temples here, everything is made from stone. Elaborate artwork is carved into the stones. There are various stair cases to climb, hallways, prayer areas, ornate columns, and (empty) royal bathing areas. Due to trampling damage from tourists there are now wood stairs in many areas of the wat.

The temples of Siem Reap are truly one of a kind, ancient, and beautifully carved. Tourists must buy either a one day pass ($20) or three day pass ($40). The latter is recommended.

According to Sam there used to be a lot of land mind victims and poor people begging at the temples. These folks have been systematically removed to an outlying area so the tourists don’t see them. The fact is, many tourists familiarize themselves with Cambodia before making their trip. They want to learn more about the hardships that are part of this country’s history. For example many tourists will travel to Khmer Rouge sites, land mine museums, and rehabilitation facilities.

Angkor Thom is a favorite wat because it has massive head carvings carved from groups of boulders. I enjoyed the carvings very much. The heads are beautifully sculptured and resemble a stone puzzle.

Ta Prohm is another famous temple. There are trees with massive roots that are growing over the walls, entrances, and carvings. There are a lot of people taking pictures here with the roots. This temple is straight out of a jungle adventure movie.

The Banteay Srei temple has a lot of apsaras (as the other temples) and other ornate carvings, especially the entrance-way roofs. There are also some very ornate towers.

In my opinion one day is not enough. You need two, and preferably three days to explore the many temples, eat meals, and pick up souvenirs. If you want to get souvenirs there are vendors at most of the temples. You can buy specific temple memorabilia (including small to huge apsaras), beautiful silks, t-shirts, caps, etc. I like to buy post card sets that show all of the different temples, plus I got a wonderful photo picture book with temple history for only $5.

There are also oil paintings for sale. These are art works of temples, Buddhas, etc. I forgot about getting an Angkor Wat painting until we returned to Phnom Phen. We were due to depart the next morning so relatives contacted an artist friend. He showed up with a perfect piece that I loved and bought. Turns out he must have taken the painting right from his living room wall for a rush sale.

After traveling westward through Cambodia on highway 5, one eventually reaches Sisophon. The road from here to Poipet at the Thailand border is rough. There is a flurry of activity once you reach Poipet. Tour busses deposit their passengers on one end. Passengers then walk several hundred yards to the other side. There is a gigantic tourist resort structure that is a joint venture between Cambodia and Thailand. You must pass a metal detector to get inside. Inside there is a casino, several restaurants, and a hotel. In contrast to this modern setting, locals try to earn a living by manually hauling travelers luggage in old fashion wood carts. Street vendors peddle refreshments, and little children escort you under umbrellas hoping you will give leave them a tip. At the final crossing there are blind and handicapped folks begging for change.

“How can I help?”

Most travelers ask this question after returning from a poor country. Cambodia also has the highest percentage of handicapped victims due to landmines and American cluster bombs. Some people may rationalize that “that’s the way the world is” or “it’s up to that country’s government” or “it won’t make any difference”. I disagree. Each of us can help each other no matter what size our gift/effort. The world is becoming (sometimes slowly) a better place through international cooperation and organized philanthropy.

There are many options. One can give to a reputable charitable organization, participate in a volunteer vacation program (there are many), sponsor a child, etc.

Here’s what I do. I believe in providing relief for immediate needs, and more importantly providing long lasting solutions that will benefit those in need far into the future. To accomplish the latter one must teach people how to perform the correct solution/path. Local community and government planning is necessary, as is legislation and cooperation at the international level. It is only through these methods that meaningful permanent solutions can be obtained to improve the lives of others.

I don’t just give on emotion. At the end of every year I consistently give to three organizations that I research. They must share my short and long term goals and have worldwide reach. It doesn’t matter how much or how little I make, I give something each year. My latest picks are: CARE, Oxfam, and UNICEF.

The tour we went on was not the type of things I traveled all the way to SouthEast Asia to see, but it was cheap. Only $155 for 5 days, including all transportation, hotels, entrance fees, taxes, and three meals a day. The tour was selected for the family appeal and affordability of present company. Our group was Sam’s relatives, many of them kids. So I decided to sit back and enjoy the tour.

Our charming guide was a Thai born Khmer. Except for me, everyone on our bus was Khmer and our guide spoke fluent Thai and Khmer. He had a lot of information on Thailand to share, and he even sang some Khmer folk songs for us. Our other guide was a young lady who was responsible for getting the passengers from Phnom Penh to the Poipet border town. She also accompanied us all through Thailand, and she spoke Khmer and English!

Thailand is doing well. After crossing from Poipet into Thailand there is a noticeable difference. The buildings are different, there are heavy duty power lines, and the roads are in great shape.

Bangkok is booming. After the bus crosses Thailand into the city, the freeway gets wider and wider. Billboards appear and before you know it you are in a Los Angles like setting. Bangkok is huge spawling metropolis. Freeways are everywhere. The inner city now has double decker freeways, and there is a monorail system. Freeway signs alert drivers of the best routes by electronic maps. The tuk-tuks have mostly disappeared and replaced by metered taxis.

Bangkok is jammed pack with people, vehicles, and businesses. The week we arrived was during the King’s 60^th anniversary so the traffic jams continued into the early morning. Bangkok is a fun, exciting place where the pulse continues all night long. The city is a mixture of both street life and modern ammenties such as shopping malls, entertainment centers, etc. Plus there is the Royal Palace, many temples, and river activities. There are always many things going on here and one can book tours of all sorts to see city attractions or take outside excursions. I would have loved to revisit some of the temples or the Grand Palace, but our tour had other plans. The first day we were whisked by bus to … Gem World.

At Gem World we were herded onto amusement like rides which journey into the wonders of precious stones. The ride entertained us with exploding volcanoes, dripping caves, old and new mining techniques, and the historic appreciation of gems by famous people of power. At the completion of the ride we are escorted into isles where we can view the actual polishing of stones and the creation of jewelry. Finally, we are herded into a gigantic show room. The idea is that now that our fascination with gems is peaked, we will purchase some of the rather exquisite jewelry that is for sale, including diamond pieces.

Next stop: DreamWorld. At this tourist mill you get a group picture (for a fee) then enter the Disneyland-like theme park. We spent the whole day riding coasters, haunted mansions, and boat splash rides. There were tons of kids. As you exit the park your picture is on a genuine Dream World plate ready for you to purchase.

Safari World is the next mill where tour busses drive you past "wild" lions, giraffes, zebras, etc. They let you off in an area where, for a fee, you can get a group picture. There is a show where drugged alligators are forced to keep their mouths open while showmen put their heads inside. It is obvious the alligators operate out of fear because they want nothing to do with the performance.

There is a display cage where they house a couple of Labrador dogs, a pig, and a tiger together. The offspring of each animal ends up nursing off the other animals milk. This is done by locking down an animal using a metal gate as in American factory farms. The mother can not stand up and is forced to give her milk to whoever suckles it. A rather pitiful freak show. The tourists love it. There are also orangutans clothed in silly outfits who are forced to perform different poses with paying tourists. If they show reluctance to pose the trainer threatens to hit them. As you exit Safari World you get a chance to buy your picture on a genuine Safari World memorabilia plate.

At a cultural village tourist site (can’t remember the exact name) there are various shows that, although Thai, have a Chinese beat and theme to them. No doubt the intended target is the growing number of Chinese tourists. There are elephant shows, and like Safari World clothed orangutans are forced to perform poses with tourists.

There is a water show where large captured water mammals (beluga whales) are confined in a swimming pool. They must perform stunts for tourists to earn their meals. Curiously in another area there is a cowboy stunt performance and a James Bond 007 show. As you exit the village you get a chance to buy your picture on a genuine memorabilia plate of the cultural village.

Pattaya

The next stop was Pattaya, a coastal town on the beach. Pattaya has really changed, it is larger than ever and there’s a lot more tourists. Our tour took us to a recreation island by boat. Here you have the chance to take boat parachute rides, jet ski’s, log rides, etc. The island is packed with activities and tourists. On the beach vendors offer souvenirs, coconut drinks, corn, etc. As in Bangkok the nightlife is significant.

On the way back to Bangkok we stopped at a Snake medicine farm and then a honey farm. Both toted the health benefits of their products. Many tourists snapped up the products.

Our final stop was at a huge theater that put on a very extravagant drag show. It was both dance choreography and comedy. The audience was eager to take close up snap shots but refused to applaud. The performers made up for the lack of appreciation by fleecing the audience of their cash after the show. Tourists empty out to the parking lot where the performers are waiting. Tourists want their pictures taken with the drags for 20 baht. At the moment the picture is taken the drags move the hands of the tourist up to their breast. They then claim that since you touched their “breast”, you must pay 100 baht! It was a fun evening.

As we crossed back into Cambodia we had a comical ending. A French Khmer teen just had his last 200 baht taken by the drag queens and was upset. Plus the food he ate at the border gave him a stomach ache. So the local Khmers had him lie down at the back of the bus. They had him take off his shirt so they could apply the medicinal rubbing technique on his body. It didn't work. The poor guy was half naked with red rub streaks all over him and everyone on the bus was staring back at him. The bus was jumping up and down big time on the rocky road from Poipet and he looked rather queasy.

Just when the use of land and sea animals in theme parks, circuses, and zoos is being questioned in the U.S., animal exploitation in Asia is increasing. The only reason these practices exist is because tourist show their approval by attending such attractions. Alligators, orangutans, beluga whales, etc. If you object to something you see, take a stand and walk out. Politely inform the tour guide that you do not appreciate such shows and why. They do pay attention to what you enjoy and dislike.

For the same reasons I contribute to people charities, every year I also contribute to three animal welfare organizations that I feel best share my goals. Animals are completely powerless against exploitation and abuse for profit. It is up to people with consciouses to speak up for them. Otherwise, who will? These are my current animal welfare charities that have tangible positive domestic and international impact: Humane Society, WSPA (World Society for the Protection of Animals), PETA (People for Ethical Treatment of Animals).

VIETNAM

Saigon is booming. There are motorcycles everywhere. Businesses and entertainment of all sorts can be found. Tourists are everywhere, and so is the industry and caters to them. 60% of the tourists are Japanese. Reasonable hotels are plentiful. Tours of any price and duration and easily arranged. You can take a half day, one day, two day, or up to one week tour of the city, nearby attractions, or all the way up length of Vietnam. They are very efficient and downright cheap. For example, a full day tour of the Mekong Delta costs only $7US. A half day tour of Cu Chi Viet Cong tunnels in the next town is only $5US.

I took both of these tours and I can tell you that for the money it was well worth it. However I found the Mekong Delta tour not particularly interesting but it is a good way to get out of Saigon and see the mighty Mekong if you have an extra day.

Cu Chi Tunnels

This tour covers the underground tunnels used by the Viet Cong during the war with the US. The bus ride is about an hour out of Saigon in the district of Cu Chi. I found this trip most interesting because our tour guide was very knowledgeable. He explained the struggles of the war and much detail on the Viet Cong fighting and hiding methods. One has to admire how they coped using these tunnels despite intense US bombing and both napalm and agent orange drops. The heavy jungle foliage was destroyed by the chemical bombs, so relatively young vegetation now covers the area.

There are sub terranian kitchens, meeting rooms, hospital rooms, etc. Breathing holes were hidden in termite holes and kitchen smoke had special low release systems. Plus the cooking was done in the early morning so the smoke would blend in with fog. Tourists are allowed to go through a 100 meter tunnel, but it is not for the claustrophobic. The tunnels are dark, very hot, narrow, and low. You must bend down and shuffle your way through. Many folks got scared and backed out.

Although it has been over 30 years since the war ended, the terrible side effects of agent orange continue to molest current generations because it is still in the soil and food chain in many areas. Agent orange has been linked to three kinds of cancers and many genetic birth defects. There are over 5 million people in Vietnam suffering from the original dropping of this chemical. U.S. chemical companies have compensated American Vietnam veterans and French rubber tree growers (for damage of their trees!). Vietnamese victims have received nothing.

Mekong Delta

The Mekong Delta all day tour includes a bus ride outside of Saigon to the Mekong river. The bus and truck drivers are crazy but you have to ride on the freeway to get there. When you arrive at the Mekong you will ride on several types of boats to cross the main river and navigate the islands. The first stop is the coconut candy factory where you see how they make these confections by hand. Then you go to a honey farm. From there you switch to small canoes. Everyone is given a rice hat and then paddled by locals to the island village. The path is through narrow canals of overhanging palm leaves. When you arrive you receive a basic lunch of rice and pork. The next stop is another neighborhood where you are served tea and local fruits. The island residents then perform a short instrument and vocal show. This tour is not the most exciting thing I’ve experienced, but it is unbeatable for $7.

Around the City

    Sights in Saigon include the Reunification Palace. Here you can learn the history and theory of the current government system. Notre Dam Cathedral is close by, built by the French. Adjacent to that is the Post Office with a picture of Ho Chi Minh inside. Favored by American tourists is the War History Museum. Don’t bother going to Xo Loi pagoda. Ben Thanh Market is one of the many huge markets for all kinds of goods/food.

    The place to stay in Saigon is District 1. Most of the attractions are in this area. However Saigon has fun things to do everywhere as far as shopping, eating, and entertainment is concerned. The city buzzes all day and in to the night. Although businesses close for the night, the outdoor restaurants are busy all hours. The motorcycles beeps can be heard 24 hours.

    One fun thing I found to do is to get a seat at an outdoor eatery and watch all the people, vendors, and traffic go by. There is so much life on the streets it is quite stimulating. People will come up to you offering lottery tickets, food, drinks, toys, shoe shine, shoulder massage, cigarettes, motorcycle rides, etc. Everything in Saigon is super cheap and the food is terrific.

Many Vietnamese have been trained by the French to paint fine oil works. There are many shops that paint fine reproductions of famous classic and contemporary artists. You will find many works of Van Gogh, Mattise, Monet, Picasso, Any Warhol, Leonardo da Vinci, etc. paintings. I bought a magnificent Mona Lisa for $30. You can watch the artists as they paint and they will do custom work if have a photo.

A very good place for tourist services is in District 1 in the two block area near De Tham & Bui Vien streets. Plenty of tour services, internet access, currency exchange, souvenirs, oil painting shops, and restaurants with English menus. There are also many oil painting shops a few blocks from Notre Dame Cathedral (traveling towards the Saigon River).

Don’t get ripped off at the airport. When you arrive there is a tour company desk. What seems like a good deal at the time is several times higher than the local price. For example, Mekong Delta tour at the airport is $25. In the city no one is charging over $7. A city tour purchased at the airport is $15. In the city it is only $5! Another thing is taxis. They are cheap and metered and everyone was honest. But one driver who took me on an “extended route”. Best to have a map so you can question the driver if you suspect something. Do not deal with tourist street pimps who offer to take you somewhere on a motorcycle to get something special or a good deal.